(IRELAND) — In April 2023, I had the trip of a lifetime. Since I was a young kid, my dad would talk about his lifelong goal of getting to Ireland.
With a gift from my mom and travel agent-esque planning on my part, we made it happen.
My Sheehan Irish lineage runs through County Limerick. Specifically, Newcastle West and Limerick City. So we knew those two spots were a must on our trip.
But after mapping out a 7-day adventure, we explored many more corners of the Emerald Isle.
The greatest parts of the trip were the views, the people, the vast green land and the stunning blue waters crashing onto the cliffs. But I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the incredible pubs, filled with delicious food and the greatest pints I’ve ever had.
I’m going to move in chronological order of my trip. We started in Limerick, headed to Killarney, and then settled in Dingle a few days for the first leg of the trip.
The middle part was in Ennistymon and Lahinch as we hiked the Cliffs of Moher.
We ended the trip in Newcastle West, Limerick again, and finally, Dublin.
1: Flannery’s Pub on Shannon St. (Limerick)
How often does it happen that your first meal is your favorite meal? I don’t have any data on that, but my guess is not often. Well, that was the case for me in Ireland.
Delicious fish & chips, seasoned to perfection. My introduction to mushy peas! It all happened at Flannery’s Pub on Shannon Street in downtown Limerick. The classic, rugby-loving Irish pub has character, coziness, and amazing foods. It’s also the place I learned Magner’s Hard Cider is called Bulmers in Ireland.
2: The Curragower (Limerick)
Sitting across from the River Shannon rests The Curragower. The bar & restaurant has much more modern vibe than Flannery’s, but a wonderful outdoor seating area gives great views of the River Shannon, King John’s Castle, and downtown Limerick.
I started out with some amazing fried calamari and a pint of Guinness.
Next, came the burger and chips to round out the meal. The ambience of the restaurant was very unique and I really enjoyed. Aside from the fried calamari, the meal was not something to write home about. I would like to go back and try a different entree if I were to return there.
3: The Shire (Killarney)
Lord of the Rings fans, this one is for you. On good ole TikTok, my brother (pictured above) and I came across The Shire. The LOTR-themed restaurant looks almost as cool as it sounds, with Middle Earth and Mordor memorabilia hanging on the walls, a green light undertone around the bar, and photos of LOTR stars who have visited before.
I hate to say it, but the food did not match the awesomeness of the restaurant. It was not bad, let me be clear on that, but it was nothing special either. If I were to return, I’d happily stop by for a pint, but would probably choose another local pub for my meal.
4: James Long (Dingle)
Grabbing a bite to eat in downtown Dingle isn’t the easiest thing on earth. Pubs are full of locals and tourists alike, with barely a table available in sight. We thought, foolishly, we could just walk down the street and find a table easily. We stumbled across the James Long pub, which lay right across the street from the harbor in Dingle. A beautiful sight. Luckily, we were put on a rather short waitlist and got a table outside.
We got back on track here in the good food category. Fried calamari and chips tamed my appetite after a long day of walking, hiking, you name it. And look at the fish & chips my brother got across from me. That fish was HUGE.
I also tried the Kopparberg strawberry/lime hard cider! 7th Street Cidery in Springfield, Illinois has this flavor cider, and it is my favorite. The Swedish cider was very refreshing, and served over ice to keep it cold.
5: The Dingle Pub (Dingle)
Dingle’s food scene continued to impress. After a full afternoon of walking the town, we decided it was time to stop for a meal. The Dingle Pub was in the vicinity, so we stopped on in.
Known for its good food, local pints and live music, the Dingle Pub was a fantastic time. I enjoyed the fish cakes & chips. My dad got the Irish stew which he said was some of the best stew he’s ever had (next to the beef stew my mom makes, of course).
Local pints were enjoyed. This was one of the rare times I strayed away from an Irish stout, lager, or red lager. Sadly, there was no live music and dancing when we were there. Maybe next time.
6: Foxy John’s (Dingle)
I wish I had more to say about Foxy John’s. But the truth is, we only stopped in for a quick pint before heading back to our Air BnB. We stayed off the Wild Atlantic Way about 10 minutes outside of town, so we thought it wise to not drive the windy, narrow roads after dark.
If you know of Foxy John’s, then you know it’s not only a pub. It’s also a hardware store. Iconic to tourists from around the world, I’d recommend Foxy John’s to anyone who visits Dingle.
7: Danny Mac’s (Lahinch)
When I think about our time at Danny Mac’s, I have to recall how much we went through to get there. Here’s another travel tip; always check the restaurants hours in towns you’re going to. We wanted our trip to be somewhat planned, somewhat spontaneous. This was one of those nights. Every restaurant was closed in Lahinch because it was in the middle of the week. But thank God for Danny Mac’s.
I veered off my usual meal to get back to an American classic with an interest twist. The BBQ ribs. Layered with sauce and sesame seeds, this was one of the best meals of the trip.
I did get back on track with my beer choice, though. The Smithwick’s Irish red lager. I also found out the “w” in Smithwick’s is silent. So it’s pronounced “Smith-Icks.” The more you know.
8: Chaser’s Bistro (Newcastle West)
Connected to our hotel in Newcastle West, I had a wonderful fish & chips meal. Newcastle West is the city my Irish roots run through (alongside with Limerick). We enjoyed searching for family history, although we came up empty handed.
On the bright side, I was introduced to one of my now favorite beers of all time. Asahi super dry. The Japanese lager is so smooth and rich in flavor, this is a special occasion beer for me now. It’s also pretty pricey if we’re being honest. Another thing I loved about Irish restaurants, is no matter what drink you ordered, you would drink it in a pint from that company.
9: Katie Daly’s (Limerick)
We stopped back in Limerick before our train ride to Dublin, which is the last stop of our trip. Katie Daly’s Irish pub was on the schedule, and it was a wonderful time. It’s eight across from King John’s Castle and near the River Shannon.
I enjoyed a different Irish staple here, the bangers and mash. Sausage and potatoes covered in gravy, this is now one of my favorite meals to cook at home.
10: Bar Rua (Dublin)
Well, I had to get one last fish & chips before I left the Emerald Isle. Bar Rua was so awesome to us. We had our luggage still, because we took the train from Limerick to Dublin, walked to the Guinness Open Gate Brewery, and then grabbed an Uber and took it to downtown Dublin. We enjoyed one last full dinner in Ireland, reminiscing on the trip and talking about the future.
Bar Rua is a modern take on the Irish pub. It’s part of the Galway Bay Brewery family.
11: Sheehan’s Pub (Dublin)
All week long I had been talking with my brother and dad about coming to Sheehan’s Pub in Dublin. I was excited, until I wasn’t. We walked up to the pub, only to be told we could not come in because of our luggage. Hence the reason we ended up across the street at Bar Rua. Luckily, the worker was extremely kind about it and felt very bad. They just didn’t have the room to hold three large suitcases. I can’t blame them. Later that night, my brother said he wanted one drink in Sheehan’s. I told him and my dad to head in and have fun. I was really tired, and was OK with staying with the luggage while they enjoyed themselves. Next time I’m in Dublin, I’m coming here and leaving my luggage at the hotel. Haha.
12: Gravity Bar @ Guinness Brewery (Dublin)
After taking the full tour in Guinness’ Open Gate Brewery in Dublin, you finish the journey at the Gravity Bar. The bar is at the very top of the building, looking over Dublin from the 7th floor.
The Guinness tour was an amazing cap to the trip. You definitely get your money’s worth here. There is so much to see, so much walking to be done, and you get to try freshly poured Guinness along the way.
While the following are not pubs, I thought they were worth mentioning. Because Ireland’s food culture isn’t just known for the pubs, the Irish breakfast is an amazing thing, too.
1: Vincenzo Grill House @ The George Hotel (Limerick)
The George is a boutique hotel in downtown Limerick. The staff were amazing and the rooms were really nice. The breakfast buffet, included in your hotel payment, was delicious.
2: Station House B&B (Ennistymon)
It was a beautiful, clear night in the photo above. That’s our bed & breakfast in Ennistymon, a town *somewhat* close to the Cliffs of Moher. We all really enjoyed our stay here. The owner was extremely friendly and there was an antique vibe inside the B&B that was warm and welcoming .
The breakfast, once again included in your B&B pricing, was pretty good once again. You were given a menu when you checked in, and you’d give it to the owner later that day so they could have your order in the morning. You’d also pick a specific time to come down for breakfast. I enjoyed the ham, sausage and eggs but pretty much steered clear of the rest. The black circle on the plate is Irish black pudding. When I was told blood is added to the meat, barley, oats and whatever else is in there, I made a clear choice to decline that. Maybe next time I’ll feel a little bolder.
All in all, the food in Ireland was fantastic. When I go back, I now know what to get, and what not to get! Thanks for reading along, I hope you enjoyed the journey.
Matt Sheehan Official 